Platinum vs white gold – what to choose for an engagement ring?
If durability, a naturally cool color without rhodium plating, and hypoallergenic properties are your priorities, choose 950 platinum. If you're looking for a lower price, lighter jewelry, and a very bright, mirror-like finish, choose 585/750 white gold, with periodic rhodium plating expected. Both metals perform well in everyday use; they differ in serviceability and weight.
Comparison – the most important differences
| Criterion | Platinum 950 | White gold 585/750 | In practice |
|---|---|---|---|
| Color and composition | Natural white, usually 95% Pt (colorless base), hypoallergenic . | Yellow gold alloyed with white metals (nickel/palladium), "cool" color with rhodium. | Platinum does not yellow. White gold may reveal the alloy's warmer tone over time. |
| Finishing / Rhodium plating | Does not require rhodium plating; may acquire a satin patina . | Usually rhodium plated to achieve a "chrome" white; the coating wears off. | In white gold, the rhodium should be renewed periodically (often every 1–3 years, depending on wear). |
| Hardness & wear | Scratches move metal (less wear); very stable prongs. | Scratches wear away the alloy (micro-material losses); lugs are harder but more brittle. | Platinum better withstands decades of setting service; gold requires inspection and refinement more often. |
| Mass/Feel | Significantly heavier (higher density). | Lighter in the same shape. | Platinum has a "solid" feel; gold may be more comfortable for those who are weight-sensitive. |
| Allergies | Generally safe for sensitive skin. | Nickel alloys may cause sensitisation; in the EU there is a limit on the release of nickel. | If you are prone to allergies: platinum or white gold with a palladium base (nickel-free). |
| Service | Periodic polishing/refreshing of patina. | Periodic rhodium plating + standard polishing/repairs. | The long-term maintenance budget is usually lower for platinum if you don't care about the "chrome" white. |
| Price | Usually more expensive (higher density, fineness and labor). | Usually cheaper with the same form/frame. | In comparable designs, platinum costs more and weighs more. |
| Holding a stone | High stability of the paws (fewer cracks, "crushing" instead of crushing). | The paws are harder, but more susceptible to cracking on impact. | To the central diamonds: platinum advantage over the long service horizon. |
| Appearance over time | Develops a satin patina (many people appreciate it). | Once the rhodium wears off, it reveals a warmer tone; it requires renewal. | Choice of aesthetics: patina vs. "mirror" after rhodium plating. |
Note: Properties depend on the specific alloy and manufacturing process. At Michelson, we select alloys (Pt-Ru, Au-Pd) and lug profiles to suit your lifestyle and service needs.
Who is Platinum 950 for?
- Sensitive skin/nickel allergy (looking for hypoallergenic).
- Maximum stability of the setting (claws for larger diamonds, jewelry that will last for years).
- Preference for natural, cool white without cyclical rhodium plating.
- Active lifestyle, wearing a ring every day.
Who is 585/750 white gold for?
- Lighter jewelry and lower cost with the same form.
- A preference for a very bright, "chrome" white after rhodium plating.
- No nickel allergy or choice of palladium alloy (nickel free).
- Ready for occasional service (rhodium plating from time to time).
Practical recommendations
- Large diamond settings (solitaire, halo): consider platinum for the paws; even in two-tone (gold track, platinum basket).
- Finish: if you don't like patina, choose white gold and accept rhodium plating; if you like noble satin, choose platinum.
- Allergies: if you have sensitive skin, avoid nickel (950 platinum or palladium white gold).
- Budget and weight: for the same body, platinum will be heavier and more expensive – take this into account with wide rails.
Schedule a consultation – we will choose the metal that suits your lifestyle and project
FAQ – frequently asked questions
How often should white gold rhodium plating be renewed?
In practice, this depends on the intensity of wear and leather chemistry; often every 1–3 years , sometimes less frequently. Daily wear and contact with detergents shorten the life of the coating.
Does platinum scratch more than white gold?
Platinum easily picks up micro-scratches, but it "displaces" the metal (low abrasion) and creates a satin patina. Gold is more susceptible to material abrasion, so it may require more long-term maintenance.
Does platinum need to be rhodium plated?
No – platinum is naturally white. Sometimes a jeweler applies a thin layer of rhodium plating for a "chrome" shine, but it's not necessary to preserve the color.
Which metal holds a diamond better in its paws?
In the long run, platinum has an advantage: the claws are less susceptible to cracking and material loss. Gold (especially nickel white) is harder but more brittle upon impact.
Is white gold with nickel safe in the EU?
Yes, provided you meet the REACH nickel release limit (for jewelry in prolonged contact with skin: ≤ 0.5 µg/cm²/week). It's worth choosing trusted labs and palladium alloys if you have allergies.
Can you feel the weight of platinum on your finger?
Yes – with the same geometry, platinum is noticeably heavier than gold, which some people perceive as "solidity" and others as too much mass in wide rails.
Summary
If you want maintenance-free white, excellent paw stability, and hypoallergenic properties , choose 950 platinum . If you value lower price, lighter weight, and a "chrome" white , choose white gold (consciously planning rhodium plating).
